Now your Taranis can alert you to issues via haptic vibrations. This is a great option for alerts in noisy flight fields.
Installation requires soldering and some basic skills.
NOTE: Your Taranis will require version 2.0 of OpenTX firmware to use the haptic features. Version 2.0 is expected to be released soon. (Not for use in Taranis Plus, it already has haptic built in.)
Instructions for B model Taranis systems:
If you have an early "A" model Taranis, please see this site for installation details: Link
This does work, and it is relatively easy to install if you have moderate soldering skills. But the vibration is very weak and hard to feel at times. But it is better than having no vibe at all.
Before you start, you need a very pointing soldering iron! If you have a blunt one, stop right here and go buy a pointy one or a new pointy tip. You will never get R10 without one. Soldering the ground and signal wire was easy. You need a very small wire for the R10 as well. I tried to use a wire from an old servo, but it was pretty large and I was having a terrible time getting it soldered on. Also, after it was soldered, I used some hot glue to hold the red wire to the board right near the connection. I didn't want the wire moving and come loose when I put the case back together. If you aren't comfortable with a soldering iron, ask one of your friends to do it. It isn't impossible, but I did have to resolder it 10 times before I got a good enough connection to hold it in place Oh yeah, the vibration is kind of soft. If you did a speaker replacement, you'll probably get more haptic feedback from that than you do this haptic upgrade. It is cool to have it when I know other people don't. :)
A little weak on the vibration but does the job.
Nicely built, small and easy to mount. For B Taranis owners a little tip to avoid melting R10 off of your board. First off you should always use a small tip iron! Plenty of $25 or less soldering stations out there with variable heat.
Frsky recommends soldering the + lead to the left side of R10. This for some is not a good idea resulting in R10 falling off of the board from excess heat! A better option is to scrape the green solder mask off of the far left trace connected to R10's left side and tin it. Solder your wire + there. Any excess heat will take longer to reach R10 so you shouldn't desolder it from the board by accident.
Use small pre tinned wires for your install. Smaller servo wire from a $3 servo is good. Soldering to D5 should be ok as shown. Add some 60/40 solder to it first as lead free doesn't flow as easy.
You must remove the connector pin for the signal input. I found a matching male pin and shrink tubing instead of cutting or soldering to the female pin. Easy to reverse if ever required.
If you sub a larger motor, remember the current it draws is from the CPU regulator. Be aware of the required current draw.
The board can actually be mounted anywhere with longer wires for a better vibration feel. I used a M/FM servo connector inline do I have future location options without having to ever mess with the board soldering again.
Loading opentx r2.0 up supports the haptic.
Give it a try.